Wednesday, June 24, 2009

06/20/09 Tears for Fears "Everybody Wants to Rule the World"



To paraphrase 'Breakfast of Champions'


My machinery is hiking machinery, but my self-awareness creates creates a very intense, very self-aware single band of light. Can you see me?

and from Mr. Updike:

"He did not envy those forever ago people for whom the world had such a weight of consequence. Like the Titans, they seemed beautiful, but sad in their heyday. Transition figures between chaos and an airier pantheon"


-John Updike "Playing With Dynamite"


Song Honorable Mention


-Tears for Fears "Head Over Heels"

06/19/09 Neil Young "Old Man" (I'm a lot like you were)




The Silverish Suburban lurches to the right as Randy aims for the small dirt shoulder.

"You're a redsox fan! Outta the truck."

He's noticed my blue, sweat-stained Red Sox cap.

His voice sounds serious and I strain to study his eyes in the rearview mirror but he is wearing dark reflective sunglasses and I cannot get a sense of his meaning. I glance at his companions sharing the backseat with me and the middle-aged woman is dancing to Fleetwood Mac's 'Change' with a large grin on her face. As she nudges me playfully with her shoulder and passes me a brief wink, I can see Randy's order is in jest.

"Nah Sam, I'm just kiddin, I'm from the bronx and a yanks fan, but some of my best buddies are from boston. I love to rag on em whenever the yankees take one. In fact, one of my best friends I met while hitching from san fran to nyc. He had a big sign that said 'boston' on it. I said to put that thing away and the first car stops and drives us both 3000 miles."


The Chevy twists and turns up the peak, bottoming out occasionally much to the delight of the intoxicated passengers and much to the painful chagrin of the driver with the brutally thick new york accent. I am unable to locate us on a map and am worried.



I fear we may be on a road running away from my trailhead. As the truck rumbles along the passengers notice my apprehension and ask how I'm doing. My answer is full of worry, I've only mildly bothered to dress it up in gratitude.

"Fine. I'm great"

Technically, I am cheating, although I figure in order to cheat, there must be some sort of faithful trail to betray. I'm getting a ride 4 miles up a road to the trailhead.

The road hasn't bothered to be true to me, therefore I have no qualms about double-crossing it. It never seems like we are honestly working together. The comrarderie that I've felt with other trails or roads - I can always find them on a map or when I make a wrong turn I am still found - is lacking with this combination of paths I've taken. We are in a constant struggle and I often am on the losing end.




This time though, the trail appears as an offshoot of the dusty brown jeep road that the chevy is climbing. I hop out. Grateful to be at the trailhead and to be out of the squeezed backseat.


"Sam, you better go buy a lottery ticket because today is your lucky day"


Randy yelps from the cockpit of his truck and drives off with his merry cargo.

I suddenly note that it is odd to know where I am while I see someone else that is lost.

So often over the past few weeks, the situation has been reversed. Randy now needed the finding, I was going north.



The pine trees filtered the gleaming yellow light in small vertical stripes that shone across my clothing as if I was in a prison with steel bars of shadow. I traversed along the eastern ridges of the heavily sloped Mt. Princeton. The grade allowed for few camping spots. I considered camping on the trail, right in the middle, thought better of it, it was rocky and I didn't know what sort of day hikers I might encounter next morning as I was between two trailheads.




My feet were feeling better, but on occasion, and without provocation, the pain in my heel would charge into me as if I had hooked an electrode to my feet and given the 'on' switch to a slightly michievious toddler.

Large thunderclouds swirled overhead, spinning slightly, and spread out extending from the top of the hill over my head, sweeping over the valley to my right. It looked as if a scientist had eyedropped a fast-growing, grey and white organism in the blue petri dish of the sky.



The cloud creature threatened as I madly searched for a level place to sleep. And even though I knew I would eventually find a place (or get rained on), I was suddenly filled with terror. Terror of not knowing when the sharp mountains would plateau. Terror of exhaustion (my right hip flexor was screaming at me). Terror of making these decisions and perhaps making the wrong one in the face of an enemy neither benign nor malignant. Nature never would choose my side.

It was a terror of not having control. Just as I froze up in the chevy when I should have been enjoying the ride, i shivered here. Stepping over the loose rock, I had to consciously tell myself to let go of this terror, because, well, I'd go insane trying to control everything out here. The trail would never obey, the hills would never abate, I wouldn't always be able to get a hitch to my exact specifications. The wind ripped across the valley against the mountain swinging wildly in temperature between 40 degrees and 80. The terror too passed in and out of me. The uncontrollable terror of not having control. And perhaps in that I have found one reason to continue my trip. Continue to terrify myself. Let go.






Song Honorable Mention:

Talking Heads, The "Houses in Motion"

06/18/09 Gershwin, George "Rhapsody in Blue"



After dragging myself out of the hotel room, hiker population of 5, at 7 in the morning and taking advantage of the breakfast bar in the form of two heaping bowls of cereal, two chocolate muffins slathered with pb and banana and 6 egg whites, I hoisted my bounce box to my right shoulder and raised my BB to my left. I was on my way to the post office. The hours of errands and preparations almost outnumbers the hours of hiking. Grocery, PO, laundromat, gas station, library, eat, eat, eat. These town chores are one thing I will not long for when I relinquish the life of a nomad.


Real life invades as I discover BC needs more paperwork to process my fin aid and I am forced to stay in town as my camping buddies depart. But not to worry, only 5 hours behind, ill catch them by saturday. I decide to take the colorado trail rather than the official CDT.



Hmmm...yeah, easy choice. Lush meadows and clear dirt paths winding through sparking green aspen forests over snow drifts, ice cornices, and grassy tundra. I've hurled myself over enough enough snowdrifts on this trip.





Tongiht was supposed to be my first time properly hanging my food (now that I am once again camping alone) but, hilariously enough, the rope won't lift the food bag. The friction is too much on the tree. Filed under: moments when you know you've overpacked.

As the bag gets lighter perhaps ill try again.



But the meadows ARE lovely and the elk that just came within 20 feet of my tent (and is now barking) IS unreal.



But I keep asking the question how will this change me? And perhaps that is the wrong question to wonder. Perhaps my occlusion is lifted without me knowing. This isn't a magic hot spring in which I immerse myself, it is a fog that is slowly lifted. But, do I notice when I see through the cloud? So far, in this respect, the trek has been a dissapointment, a shortcoming. I can't see how this is supposed to change anything, except for the accumulation of memories and knowledge and images in my camera and my mind. And maybe that's how it goes. And so it goes.

This is even-keeled and endurance and the slow creep of the untamed and the unplanned. Nature endures and so do I each 20 mile day. There are no epiphanies here. No light bulbs. Sadly, I better get ok with that.




For now, the wildlife are active this evening, the wind is roughing up the trees (storm on the way), and I need to get some sleep so I can catch my friends tomorrow.

Honorable Mention

Allman Brothers "Midnight Rider"

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

09.06.17 Her Space Holiday "Japanese Gum" (Until there's nothing left to love until there's nothing left to say)

I know the blog seems a little discombobulated. I apologize for it. I'm rediscovering posts hidden in the depths of my blackberry. This is a post written before I got to Salida, CO on the 17th of June. It is before this latest section in which I traveled between Salida and Leadville.

It is a brief description of my last day on the trail on the section between San Luis Pass and Monarch Pass.



Hopefully, eventually, I'll find my stride. Bear with me. Or not.







I open my tent flap at 5:45, blinking into my frozen, off-yellow, mud bathed shoes. I can see the insoles are wearing a little already. 200 miles of walking will do that. Since I have a bit of alcohol left, I light my stove and hold the icey footwear above the flames, melting the outside just enough to slip my red, swollen feet into the tops. I walk around my campsight with my toes only halfway wedged in the blocks of ice I call shoes and I suddenly know how high-heels must feel like.

After putting on everything I own for warmth and doing a few jumping jacks and pushups, I start refilling my backpack. My food bag looks pathetic and emaciated. One dinner left, 10 clif bars to go, 24 miles till the highway.

Around me, my campmates are similarly huddled but they are much further along in their packing endeavors. Soon, I am forced to slip my hands out of my precious gore-tex gloves and dip them into the morass of my icey tent. The stuff sack seems so small and the tent seems outrageously cumbersome, stiff, and cold. This is most painful moment of the morning. I don't have smaller, more dexterous fleece gloves and I cannot use stand the clumsiness of my ski gloves, thus I persist, naked hands grinding against the frozen polymers of the tent. Miraculously (each time I think this thought) and after much cursing, the tent fits in its stuffsack home.

Whirling around, I confront my companions, all more than 20 years my senior and all morning people. They are also in incredible shape, often dragging and cajoling my shell of a stick-figure the last 5 miles of each 20 mile day. I've spent the last few days with them and found myself tired and lagging each time, but today I am motivated. I smell town.

I announce that I am in "town mode" and they agree. But, I tell by their wayward glances and hollow voices that they haven't slept well. They don't have the recovery capabilities of youth.

We camped at 9600 in a river valley next to the Tank Seven River, CO (google it if interested). Climbs of more than 1000 feet await us. Around Big Windy Peak and through the snow.



I accelerate up the hill and trudge, my Ipod squarely blaring in one ear, over the summit.

After 11 miles of grueling hiking, I find myself at Marshall Pass, CO and promptly lose the trail. I'm 2 hours ahead of my friend and panicking and frustrated, I try in vain to relocate the trail.



Eventually, I return the last known spot, defeated. My friends catch up and with their help, I discover the trail right under my nose.



Almost 10 miles of snow trudging awaits. Blurry and tired, I spy a robin. I think about eating it. I think of tearing the feathers off and snapping its neck. I am Sylvester the cat after he's gulped Tweety, only there are blue robin feathers coming out of my mouth. The bird is still squirming between my teeth. It is trying to burrow out between my shadowy, out-turned bicuspid and canine.

I'm not even that hungry. I need to get to town.







And then we go up. Towards the black ghostly clouds of rain and hail. Towards the ice cornices and the deep, sinking, envelping snow. Snow so deep that when I sink in, exhausted, there are glimmers in my brain that tell me to remain there until August. Let it melt around me. Stay there and don't move. Ever again.






The next 5 miles are hazy imprints of adrenalin and pounding and wind. I almost fell down a 100 foot ice chute. And I didn't even get a picture. This is a sorta good one. It was too much effort to reach for the camera a second time when I had the angle.



Monarch Pass at 12k+.




Never again, I say to myself.

But, I know I will.

The first car we see, an astrovan, slows in the shoulder of Interstate 50. We crumple in. Later that night I eat an entire 16' Dominoes pizza and sleep for 10 hours.




In my unblinking, unmoving slumber, I dream I have torn the face from a beautiful woman. I later convince everyone that it wasn't me who de-faced this girl. To prove it, I perform a miraculous surgery attaching a new face on the blank, oozing skeleton.

Later in the dream, I build a red skyscraper. The building blocks the views of a very important city aristocrat.




Song Honorable Mention:

-The Killer's "All these That I've Done" (While everyone's lost, the battle is won)


09.06.16 Grouper. "Heavy Water/I'd rather be sleeping"

Walking along the side of the garbage strewn highway 50. I'm on my way to Wal-Mart (my first time!).

I have no laundry thus I have no socks, rain pants (muddy), sleeveless mesh shirt, unshaven, broken sunglasses, and one-side of my face is puffy (allergies?). I have a noticeable limp.

As I pull into the wal-mart parking lot, someone yells from the back of the pickup truck: "hey kid, why don't you get a shopping cart"

At the time, I am making an international call on my Blackberry Curve.

I love Colorado.

09.06.14 DeadMau5 "Ghosts and Things"


Far too exhausted to write anything tonight. Back to back to back 20 mile days with 8000+ feet of total elevation climb. I'm borderline comatose.



Jagged rocks cover with the Colorado/Continental Divide Trail. I'm somewhere between San Luis Pass and Marshall Pass, CO.


At the end of the day, I basically snapped for an hour and jogged across various forested ridges, with my Ipod blaring listening to Deadmau5 and other associated house music.

Again, there remains no in-between on this trail. The views make me feel small and transcendent and all those are other inspirational, chilly feelings. Yet, it's also crushing how much walking there is and how much my feet hurt. But I wonder why I love to complain about this so much? Especially when I see stuff like this everyday.

See? Strikes and Gutterballs. No Spares




I still feel like I should be creative, writing about the rolling hills of pine trees and the dusty trails of the mountains. Mostly, I'm too tired to arrange metaphors in my head. The pace is unmerciful and the pain often unyielding. This is honestly one of the hardest athletic endeavors of my life. However I will say, despite the abrupt, fitful sleep, I am having some of the most vivid dreams on this trip.

For now, ill write about the dream I had last night. My dad and I are standing on the beach. He is rubbing sunscreen into his ears and his bald, pink head. There are big spots of lotion that still aren't rubbed in. As he applies the sunscreen, he's talking to me about an assignment. We are in the secret service (I know, there was no secret service at that time) and our job is to protect Abraham Lincoln. As he tells me of this assignment, I keep trying to tell him and everyone else that I know when Lincoln will die. But no one believes me. The rest of the dream I am walking on the beach yelling at people about John Wilkes Booth. I'm fired from the secret service. Suddenly, Lincoln is shot and everyone blames me. I'm taken into custody and have to break out of a dark, dripping cell.

At that point I wake up and I've nearly strangled myself with my sleeping bag.

The End.



Song Honorable Mentions:

-Siouxze and the Banshees "Overground"

-Soundtrack from A Clockwork Orange "Beethoven's March" (for Erik)

Telefon Tel Aviv "Mostly Translucent"





Things I obsess about while hiking:



1. Where is the next water?



2. My feet are killing me I need to get new inserts



3. Are there any girl hikers younger than my mother on this trail?



4. Why aren't I any faster these dudes that are almost twice my age?



5. I should be communing with nature! Why can't I commune better? Commune!



6. I should use this time to be at peace with my thoughts. Be at peace!



7. I should do pushups in my tent each night. To warm up. Also, because pushups are cool.



8. Hmm, cheese danish or 2 snickers bar for my snack?



9. How many grams of sugar does one have to eat/day to trigger latent type 2 diabetes. I think I've eaten over a hundred thousand today.



10. I should be a nature photographer! Wait, I'm not a 16 year old girl







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